M101 – The Pinwheel Galaxy
I wanted to have at least 3 hours of M101 and had hoped for 5 hours but ended up with 3.5 hours. If it wasn’t for Dan’s help, it would have probably been worse. For some reason, the Lodestar was no longer par-focal. It took us about 90 minutes to figure a combination of extensions and adapters that worked. Despite some artefacts on the guiding image (probably due to some defects in the prism) guiding was perfect. I sticked with 10 mn exposures for the whole night considering there shouldn’t be any over-exposed area with this target.
Processing was pretty challenging because of some problems during calibration and the fact I think my subs were colder than my darks by about 3-4 C. I need to shoot more 10mn darks.
- Date: May 19th 2012
- Camera: Canon 500D Baader Modified and CP30T-EOS Cooled (Sensor maintained at 10 C – Exif temperature: 10 C)
- ISO: 1600
- Exposures: ~ 3.5 hours of integration time (600 s subs)
- Mount: Losmandy G11 Gemini 2
- Imaging Telescope: AT8RC w/ AP-CCDT67 @ .68x
- Guiding: OAG9 w/ SX Lodestar
- Calibration: Darks, Flats, Bias
- Stacking: DSS (Sigma/Kappa)
- Final blending/processing: PixInsight 1.7 and Adobe Photoshop CS5
G11 – Gemini-II Ascom
For the first 8 months I’ve used my Losmandy G11 with Gemini-II I only used the Hand Controller to slew, center, create models, auto-guide, etc. In some ways, I am glad I did: it was pretty instructive.
Then the firmware for Gemini-II became more mature and so did the Gemini Ascom drivers. While I can’t say for sure I experienced auto-guiding problems because of the firmware, Pulse-Guiding through Ascom is supposed to be more reliable anyway.
Here is a small guide to setup Ascom for Gemini-II and configure Stellarium to interface directly with the mount.
Prerequisites: You will need to install the following software before you continue. I am not detailing the installation steps as they are pretty straight forward.
- Use an Ethernet cable to connect your computer to the Gemini-II controller.
- Download and install the Firmware Update Program or make sure you are running the newest Gemini-II firmware. Visit Gemini-2.com for more details on setting up a network connection with the mount, etc.
- Download and install the Ascom 6 platform.
- Download and install the Gemini-II Ascom driver (click on “Gemini 2″ menu and under “USB and Ascom Drivers” click on “Ascom Gemini Telescope Installer”.
- Download and install Stellarium.
- Download and install Stellarium Scope.
First start Stellarium and get used to the interface if you are not already familiar with it. You will need to select your location, for more precise GoTo I recommend that you set your exact location using GPS coordinates and altitude. Do not close Stellarium.
Make sure the mount is in CWD (counter weight down) position and power it on.
Open your web browser and go to the Gemini web interface, by typing: http://gemini/ this will ask your username and password. if you haven’t changed those, username should be “admin” and password should be left blank. Go to the Site/Time page and make sure your location and time are set properly.
Gemini Ascom Telescope Control:
Launch Gemini Telescope Control.
The window’s version of your hand controller will be displayed.
It is not connected yet.
Click on setup and make sure “Ethernet” is selected as the way to connect to the controller. Most of the other settings are your mount settings and will be updated when you are connected. Save the settings.
Click on the “connect” button. The hand controller window now shows tracking information and the “connect” button has been replaced by “disconnect”.
Stellarium Setup:
Go back into Stellarium.
Click on Configuration, then click the Plug-in tab. In the list, select “Telescope Control” and click “add”.
Enter a name for the “Telescope”. Technically, for us, it’s more a mount than a telescope, enter anything that makes sense to you. I chose “Losmandy G11 Gemini2″. Then click on “configure”.
Make sure you select Ascom as the connection method. The port can be set to any number, just make sure you remember what you set it to as you will need it to configure Stellarium Scope later. I chose port 10000.
Save the settings. You should now see a window similar to this one:
Now, connect the telescope you’ve just added. You can now close the configuration windows.
Setting up Stellarium Scope:
Under “Scope Driver” click on the browse button [...] and select “ASCOM.GeminiTelescope”.
Click “Connect”.
Under TCP/IP Socket, select the same port as you previously selected in Stellarium, in this case 10000.
Click on “Enabled”.
Now, if everything was done correctly at the bottom of the Stellarium Scope window you should read: “Socket: connected to 127.0.0.1″ and “Scope: connected”.
Do not close this window but you can minimize as you shouldn’t need it anymore.
Using the Ascom Gemini Telescope Control:
The window’s version of the Hand Controller allows you to move the telescope just as any mount hand controller would. You can select between three speeds: G for Guide, C for Center and S for Slew.
You can start and stop tracking and access the mount configuration by selecting “Setup”.
There isn’t much else to say other than it is very handy. If you like me want to use programs such as BYE, EQalign, they all require you to look at the image produce by your camera and center a star for example. Instead of using your physical hand controller, you can just click and directly observe the result on the next window.
Using Stellarium to control your mount:
While it isn’t nearly as accurate as a good multi-star model, Stellarium GoTo’s can be very convenient. Especially if you plan on doing a few iterations of a drift alignment in preparation of a imaging night, you probably won’t want to spend too much time building a model to point at a few bright star for your drift alignment.
Once everything has been set up (if Stellarium Scope is connected to both Stellarium and the Scope) stellarium will now display an orange circle (target mark) with the name of the “telescope” you chose when you set up the Telescope Control plug-in for Stellarium.
If your mount is in CWD position and if you haven’t played with the hand controller yet, this target mark should be aiming at the NCP (North Celesial Pole) – if you are in the northern hemisphere at least.
In the example below, I am about to start a drift alignment routine using EQalign. I am using a western star, Procyon. To slew to a star, you need to first select it. Make sure you have selected the corrected star by looking in top left corner of Stellarium to get some information about the selected object (Name, Magnitude, etc). When selected, press CTRL + 1. You sometimes have to do this twice. A “Stellarium Telescope Control” window should pop up from which you need select one of two actions. In this case, click on “Slew Telescope”. The image below shows this example.
If your coordinates and time were set properly in Stellarium (and the Gemini 2 controller) it should be a farily accurate GoTo (assuming CWD position was accurate and a decent polar alignment was done).
You will most likely need to center this star on your camera or eyepiece. With an eyepiece, it’s probably easier to use the physical hand controller while looking through the eyepiece. With a camera, just use the window’s version of the hand controller to center it properly.
Once centered go back to Stellarium. The star should still be selected, so just press CTRL + 1 to and click on “Sync Telescope” to tell Stellarium precisely where the scope is aiming at. And your next GoTo’s should be slightly more accurate.
AT8RC – MoonLite Focuser
My AT8RC came with the stock Astronomy Technologies focuser. It is known to somewhat under-perform. Mine was no exception but I have to admit it was quite a bit better than what I was expecting (considering the bad comment I had read about it).
There is not a great choice when it comes to after market focusers (especially for this telescope). MoonLite has good reputation and a lot of 8″ RC (from GSO) owners have been satisfied with their MoonLite CS SCT Focusers. To be honnest at a base price of $245 I didn’t feel like I was taking any risk.
I went with: the Black Anodize finish, CS Flange with RC 8″ Thread, the 1.5″ Travel Brass Compression Ring Drawtube and the 1.5″ Dual Rate, Tri-Knob with Shaft Lock (+ $125). My focuser was assembled and shipped within 24 hours and it arrived 48 hours later.
Here are some of the difference I’ve noted (so far):
- Cosmetically, the product quality is just fantastic. It looks so much better than the stock focuser.
- Mechanically, it is perfect. All parts are well adjusted. Knobs spin perfectly and without tight spots. The low speed knob on the AT focuser is really difficult to use. As you start turning it, there is about 1/16 of a turn where nothing happens: the draw tube doesn’t move at all. It really made precision focusing difficult. While I haven’t tried focusing with the MoonLite yet, I already know the low speed knob is highly precise.
Another nice feature on the MoonLite is the fact you can rotate the whole focuser assembly by just loosening one thumb screw. On the AT, you would have to loosen the whole focuser assembly from the rear cell of the telescope. Once loosened enough, you would rotate the focuser and retighten it in position. If you are doing this in your garage that’s OK but if your telescope is already installed on your mount, balanced, if you’ve done your polar alignment, modeling, well then there is chance you will have to do some of these things again as it’s not always easy to loosen this large compression ring without holding the rear cell really really tight to make sure it doesn’t move.
- The draw tube I chose for my MoonLite focuser has three adjusting screws and a brass compression ring. I’ve installed a few 2″ nose pieces in there: they fit slightly better than with the AT which already was a pretty decent fit; and the third adjusting screws do help holding the nose piece in place. This should prove even more beneficial when I install my imaging gear.
- Both focusers came with a 2″ to 1.5″ adapters. I rarely use them (other than for plugging the opening).
And now, I can’t wait to test it under the stars.
AT8RC – Field Flatteners and Reducers
Ever since I bought my 8″ Ritchey Chretien telescope I have been using it with the Astronomy Technologies AT2FF which is designed to work with most of the brand’s refractor as well as their 6″, 8″ and 10″ RC.
The Astronomy Technologies AT2FF is known to work well with these telescopes and I will surprise no one by saying I think it did a pretty good job on my AT8RC. I didn’t really want to comment on this Field Flattener until I’ve tried imaging without it. A few weeks ago, as I was trying my OAG setup I had the chance to take several shots without any flattener.
While most of the field in my pictures (with my APS-C sensor) were pretty flat, there were some clear signs of elongation in all four corners. A while back, I read some comments saying that with an APS-C DSLR the Field Flattener was kind of useless. I can’t say I completely agree with this though. If you are shooting M33 for example or any other object that will use most of the frame, I don’t think you will want to go without a field flattener. But for smaller galaxies, planetary nebulae and any other small objects that will want to make you crop your image, yes the field flattener won’t be of any use.
In my case, I am glad I used it on both M33 and my M81/M82 mosaic. Even though, I gave a wide frame feel to my M51 image, considering the cropping I did, I could have certainly shot it without the AT2FF. The only disadvantage of this item is the short back focus it is designed to work at. 55 mm is very short and when using a DSLR you have no choice but to attach it directly to the T-ring. Using an OAG with the AT2FF would be only possible with it after the OAG which will increase the guiding camera to OAG distance by a great deal.
Overall, it’s a great piece of equipment to hold on to for any mosaic work or for larger objects. It doesn’t feature any kind of reflection or artifact and if you don’t want to crop your image you can trust it, it will give you a flat field. Its cost: $150.
The Astro-Physics AP-CCDT67 isn’t as widely used as the AT2FF. It is primarily a focal reducer but by nature it will also correct the field. It is designed for telescopes with a focal ratio slower than f/9. Although the AT8RC is f/8, it does work and does work well actually.
In terms of specifications, the CCDT67 fits the AT8RC/APS-C DSLR combination pretty well. DSLR have a lot of back focus compared to CCD cameras, for example my 500D has a T-ring to sensor distance of 49.50 mm. It means that installing the CCDT67 directly on the T-ring (which isn’t possible without a Male T-thread to female M48 adapter) would already imply a reduction ratio of .78x.
In my test, I didn’t a short adapter but only a T-thread nose piece (with an internal M48 thread used for filters) which measured about 28 mm. This gave a reduction ratio of about .68x.
The telecompression graph is available from Astro-Physics’ website here.
With plenty of back focus, it should be usable with short OAG setups using a APS-C DSLR. I am actually awaiting an OAG9 (which is only 9 mm long) to try this out.
Both the Iris Nebula and the globular cluster M5 shot with the CCDT67 gave a perfectly flat field throughout the frame.
It is priced very reasonably at $148 which makes this item an excellent choice for field flattener and focal reducer for the AT8RC (and probably other telescopes too).
NGC7023 – The Iris Nebula
As soon as the moon set I started shooting the Iris Nebula. I was able to get about 3 hours worth of data. If wind had not started blowing around 3 AM, I would have pretty much doubled the total integration time… too bad.
I was surprised at how much dust I was able to capture with only 3 hours of data. It is somewhat challenging to process especially when keeping noise under control.
- Date: April 28th 2012
- Camera: Canon 500D Baader Modified and CP30T-EOS Cooled (Sensor maintained at 10 C – Exif temperature: 10 C)
- ISO: 1600
- Exposures: ~ 3 hours of integration time (300 s and 600 s subs)
- Mount: Losmandy G11 Gemini 2
- Imaging Telescope: AT8RC w/ AP-CCDT67 @ .68x
- Guiding Telescope: AT65EDQ w/ SSAG
- Calibration: Darks, Flats, Bias
- Stacking: DSS (Entropy Weighted Average)
- Final blending/processing: PixInsight 1.7 and Adobe Photoshop CS5
M5
I went back to Anza on April 28th 2012 to test this OAG setup. Unfortunately and for the second time it didn’t work as planed. I will update my web page about the OAG soon for more details. But basically, with the CCDT67 focal reducer this far from the sensor (about 90mm) I can’t reach focus even with no extension used.
I took the OAG off and setup the AT65EDQ to guide.
I did keep the CCDT67 focal reducer to see what it can do. With my M42 to M48 adapter, the reduction is about .68x which on the AT8RC gives about 1110 mm of focal length and a focal ratio of about f/5.4.
I had about a couple of hours before the moon set to start doing long exposures of the Iris Nebula and decided to try shooting my first globular cluster: M5.
I started with 2 mn exposures and finished of with some 1 mn to make sure I could get some details out of the bright core.
As usual, technical details are listed below the picture:
- Date: April 28th 2012
- Camera: Canon 500D Baader Modified and CP30T-EOS Cooled (Sensor maintained at 10 C – Exif temperature: 10 C)
- ISO: 1600
- Exposures: ~ 1.5 hours of integration time (120 s and 60 s subs)
- Mount: Losmandy G11 Gemini 2
- Imaging Telescope: AT8RC w/ AP-CCDT67 @ .68x
- Guiding Telescope: AT65EDQ w/ SSAG
- Calibration: Darks, Flats, Bias
- Stacking: DSS (Entropy Weighted Average)
- Final blending/processing: PixInsight 1.7 and Adobe Photoshop CS5
M51 – The Whirlpool Galaxy
After about two months of bad weather on the week-ends I was finally able to make it to Anza on April 20th 2012. I already knew I was going to shoot at M51 but I was pretty excited to test my new guiding setup.
Being caught in traffic made me arrive pretty late and was forced to setup in the dark. That went OK but I quickly realized that I was going to have some problems with the OAG.
I have no dark sky at my house to even roughly test things out but I did do some tests during day light. The electrical pole I aim at was probably too close as I was never able to reach focus on stars. That was a bummer but fortunately enough I just had to remove one of the large threaded extension on the 8″ RC to fix that. Then I realized that I really didn’t need any 1.25″ extension for the SSAG once the large extension was removed. But finally and sadly, I realized that the SSAG wasn’t sensitive enough to make out of the faint stars around DSO’s. I slew to some Magnitude 4 and 5 stars and the SSAG was able to see them, but really what can I do when there is just nothing that bright around my DSO’s? I quickly decided to move on and reinstall the SSAG on my AT65EDQ and start guiding the same old way.
I also realized that the AT2FF field flattenner isn’t working that great when installed this far from the CMOS sensor. I think that if I am able to get my OAG setup working, I will have to lose the Field Flattenner. Anyway, I’ve now got some more research and thinking on the table.
Back to M51. Because I lost so much time with OAG problems, I decided to spend the rest night working on M51. I tried some new PHD settings (i.e. longer calibration steps) and it did seem to make it both more reliable and more accurate. I started off with 5 minutes subs and moved to 10 minutes subs. As usual I like to combine long and short exposure to widen the dynamic range of my astro-photographs. I ended up with 3.25 hours of data. I stacked the images with DSS in EWA mode. Calibration included both temperature matched dark frames and flat frames. Final post processing was done with Pix Insight. Technical details listed under the picture!
- Date: April 20th 2012
- Camera: Canon 500D Baader Modified and CP30T-EOS Cooled (Sensor maintained at 10 C – Exif temperature: 10 C)
- ISO: 1600
- Exposures: ~ 3.25 hours of integration time (300 s and 600 s subs)
- Mount: Losmandy G11 Gemini 2
- Imaging Telescope: AT8RC w/ AT2FF
- Guiding Telescope: AT65EDQ w/ SSAG
- Calibration: Darks, Flats
- Stacking: DSS (Entropy Weighted Average)
- Final blending/processing: PixInsight 1.7 and Adobe Photoshop CS5
















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